Sunday, 20 January 2013

Emergency Taxi (ET) in Harare








The long queue snakes along the busy main road.
It is full of all sorts:  a woman carrying a baby on her back, a father in his suit and tie.
They wait patiently when the tout called Hwindi orders them to stop pushing.
No one knows who Hwindi is or who gave him permission to order people around.
Hwindis are all the same: if you don’t listen to them they throw you out of the queue.

An ET arrives, spitting out its last passengers from its small, fat belly.
Everyone knows the ET rules: two passengers in the front with the driver and sixteen or more at the back;
Children sit on the lap unless they pay full fare.
Hwindi has no seat and squeezes himself into the corner by the door.
Heavy goods are strapped on the roof, secured with strips from tyre tubes which stretch long and tight.

In seconds, all seats are full and the ET is on its way, weaving in and out of traffic at speed.
It is a very squashed affair inside, with strangers’ hips intimately touching in an uncultural fashion.
The small seats barely contain one half of a gifted African woman’s bottom, never mind two.
Feeling hot and squashed, the baby on the back begins to cry but there is nothing mother can do.
There is no room for mother to turn her head, never mind removing the baby from her back.

Batanidzai!  Hwindi instructs them to put their money together.
Row by row the passengers hand over two dollars each and forward it to the Hwindi in order.
Mukwasha ndisiyei pamusasa apo.  My son-in-law drop me off by the musasa tree, says the woman with the baby to Hwindi.
Who knows, maybe Hwindi will marry her daughter one day.
Hwindi instructs the driver who knows the exact tree at which to stop.

Further ahead, people line the road flagging down the ET as they desperately try to get home.
One ari ega!, shouts Hwindi. One man by himself, says Hwindi, in ET lingo.
If there is a couple or a family, only one of them can board this ET.
The ET slows down, door open, with Hwindi propping himself in the door way,
But everyone is with someone, so the ET doesn’t stop.

It carries on along the familiar route, door still open and Hwindi hanging out his head.
It stops down the road for the lady in a mini skirt and high-heeled shoes, but she looks away.
Voetsek! Piss off!  Hwindi shouts at her.  Hure remuHarare! Harare prostitute!  Stop wasting our time!
Hwindi has an amazing array of colourful language, enough to make a black man blush.
He thrives on the power he wields in the vehicle and will not be contradicted.

The ET is a taxi with neither the comforts nor expenses of one.
It stops exactly where you want, paCorner (at the corner) or pamaRobots (at the traffic lights).
It has no timetable and is likely to come in five minutes or ten or forty to pick you up along its route.
Beware if you are a lady wearing stockings, you are sure to have a ladder up your leg or a hole in your dress,
As a result of all the rough surfaces and improvised metal seats that wobble on the ET.

There are no seat belts in an ET except at the front,
For it is near impossible to strap on four or five passengers in a row.
If a road accident should happen, it is an ‘untimely’ death.
What choice does a poor commuter have?
Road accidents happen to the rich in their Mercedes and four-wheel drives too.



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